I thought it was about time that I started to highlight some of the great places and things to do in Milwaukee, not only in case some of you should come to visit us (hint, hint!) but also so that you can get more of a feel for this new city we're in.More famous for being the home of Happy Days, Laverne and Shirley, Harley Davidson, and Miller Brewing, it's German and Polish heritage (translation: lots of beer, sausage and cheese), and perpetually living in the shadow of big brother Chicago; with its better architecture, better food, more colourful mob bosses, and Oprah; Milwaukee is finally undergoing a makeover.
Developers are taking the industrial warehouses downtown and converting them into microbreweries, restaurants, offices and apartments; the picturesque lakefront now hosts one of the most beautiful modern buildings in America (the Santiago Calatrava-designed Milwaukee Art Museum), and from Summerfest (the world's largest music festival) in June until September music echoes from the city parks and outdoor venues in one long festival of festivals.
I've picked a few favourites, with a different family member in mind (in case you visit!), so here's a sample of the city's highlights - with more to come as I continue to discover the city!
Milwaukee Art Museum (Paula - it's all white!)
This is where I go to have a meditation with my eyes open...
The new Calatrava wing of the Art Museum (he is from Valencia for all you America's Cup fans), located on the shores of Lake Michigan, is one of the most restful spaces I've ever been in. The giant "wings" open at 10am every morning and close at 5pm when the museum closes (see the motion shot above). They were so large they had to be specially flown in from Europe on an Antonov plane.
Since we've been here there have been two brilliantly curated exhibitions - one on Biedermeier period furniture and the current exhibition on Francis Bacon - both terrific world class exhibitions - this city should be truly proud of this great space.
The permanent collection is anchored by the generous donation of the private collection of Mrs Harry Lynde Bradley (from one of the large philanthropic families in the area). With great foresight she actually donated her massive collection to the museum while she was still alive and the you can visit the private lounge and area she used, with the same furnishing and art as when she was alive.
This woman had magnificent taste and the collection includes works from the early 20th century Fauves, through to modern contemporary works. There are also several Georgia O'Keefes (she was from Wisconsin). It is a magnificent collection and I love almost all of the works. My favourite (left) is a piece by Canadian expressionist artist Jean Paul Riopelle - it's very "me"...
If you ever visit take some time to stand at the bottom of East Wisconsin avenue at 10am or 5pm to watch "the show".
"Lakeshore Drive" (Sheila)
Well actually, it's Lincoln Memorial Parkway, but it's our version of Chicago's famous Lakeshore Drive.
Be sure to bring your walking shoes (roller-blades, bike, or cross-country skis - depending on the season) as you'll be joining me on a fabulous 6mile walk from our place, two blocks to Lake Michigan, and then along Lincoln Memorial, up the hill and back through Lake Park for a picturesque bit of exercise. We'll pass some of the cities beaches where they play beach rugby in the summer months. If you're good, we'll probably stop at Alterra, our local coffee roaster, for a coffee on the way home!Brewery Tours (Patrick)
You've got to do one and there are plenty to choose from but the top local favourite for quality beverages and atmosphere is Lakefront Brewery, followed by Sprecher, who make excellent sodas (I've fallen in love with cream soda!) as well as beer, and of course Miller Brewing for the full bells and whistles slick operation - but great if you want to see a big brewery in action.
All have plenty of tastings, and on Friday nights Lakefront has a fish fry (a BIG local favourite thing to do on a Friday night - it's the Catholics heritage maybe...) and a ooomm- pa-pa polka band for all you crazies! Talking of fried fish, apparently the fish fry at the American Serb Hall is the best in town - but we've yet to get there...
Brats and Cheese
As I mentioned they're huge here. The best sausage/bratwurst maker is Usingers who have a store and factory downtown, and the Wisconsin Cheese shop is right next door - making tasting and shopping all the more convenient!Harley Davidson Factory (Grant)
We haven't been ourselves yet - but this is on the must-do list of things to do if you can fit it in. And before you go you need to practice saying "potato-potato-potato" in quick fire succession...that's the sound a Harley makes between your legs...!
Milwaukee Public Market (Tina)
This is a new indoor market in the historic Third Ward area of town. Initially we were looking
in this part of town for a loft apartment when we first moved here. The Third Ward is a little like the Auckland Britomart development in a few years - lots of converted beautiful old buildings that are now apartments, restaurants, and shops.The market also has an open air Farmers Market in the summer in the carpark but this is a good place to get locally produced goodies. Look out for the fresh cheese curds at the West Allis Cheese and Sausage stand...always a great place to stop for tasters...!
I will also probably take you to Sendiks, Metro Market and Wholefoods...We are blessed with a range of great quality grocery stores for excellent produce and meats etc. We go to Sams Club for all the basics. The warehouse stores (like Sams or Costco - which we don't have here) are the places to get the essentials. Every American house has to have a huge pantry, basement or attic so you can store all your extra supplies of paper towels and toilet paper!
Cocktail with a View - the Pfister Hotel top floor bar (Ann)The bar Blu in the historic Pfister has a great grown-up cocktail bar on the 23rd floor. Big comfortable chairs close to the windows and you have a great place for a pre-dinner cocktail or a post-dinner nightcap with a view over the lake. If you're in town in a Thursday night we'll likely take you to Centanni's in the Third Ward which has a great piano player and the crowd are relatively well behaved 35+year olds.
I'll also probably take Ann to Eve's Bar - a very cool martini bar with an all red interior.
Sake-Tume (Ollie)
A cool sushi-cum-Korean (not quite sure how they can put the two of them together so easily, but Milwaukee's best sushi joint is Sake-Tume downtown. Sit at the bar and watch the chefs slice. It's right next door to Eve's so we'll likely do both!
Whistling Straits @ Kohler (Paddy & Adele)
The home of great toilets, baths and bathroom fixtures, the town of Kohler (40 minutes north of Milwaukee) hosts as part of its 5-star resort destination, The American Club, four world class links golf courses. One of the courses Whistling Straits, will be the venue for the US Seniors Open in early July 2007.Frozen Custard (Maria!)
If you're going to do the beers and brats, you've got to do the frozen custard too...regular readers will have seen my post some time back. Nothing more to add - just get ready to indulge!
St Joan of Arc Chapel @ Marquette University (Mike)
This delightful small chapel on the grounds of Marquette University downtown originally had its home 12 miles south of Lyon in France, and supposedly was the chapel that Joan of Arc prayed before the statue of Our Lady just prior to going into her final battle. She kissed the stone on which she stood and ever since that stone has been colder than the other stones surrounding it.
In the mid 1920s it was moved stone by stone to Long Island on the East Coast as it was bought by a wealthy heir whose family later bequeathed the chapel to Marquette. In the 1960s the university undertook a massive relocation and restoration project to relocate the chapel once more.
So there you have it - my first travel post on Milwaukee - with more to come! Ollie and Ann will get the prize for first visitors - they're headed this way next week - yay!
